North Buttress of Crestone Peak + Traverse ; I drove from Crested Butte to Westcliffe Friday night after work a little later than expected. Pagoda Mountain (13,497’) casts an imposing image at the head of Glacier Gorge, between the Keyboard of the Winds and Chiefs Head Peak. I don't use any specific reason for including a point. I climbed about 15 feet up before heading back right around a corner and making a tricky move over a roof. Elk below Green Lake. I ran the rope out (save for about 10 feet), built an anchor with three cams on a diagonal crack system, and belayed Christin. The red line shows the North Buttress Route on Pagoda Mountain seen from Upper Glacier Gorge. ... View of the North Cascades looking towards the Picket Range (Luna Peak at left center, Challenger to the right. Some pretty yellow flowers. North Buttress (5.7), Pagoda Mountain, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado A bivy in Glacier Gorge, six miles from the trailhead, will position you perfectly below Spearhead, a granite shield stacked with worthy objectives. It was 10:15 am and the earliest summit of our partnership to date! McHenrys early light. 3. Parent: Pagoda Mountain. Serratus Mountain, North Buttress Canada, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Pacific Ranges, Tantalus Range IT HAD ALL gone wrong. Southeast "Arabian" Ridge via the "Knife Me" Couloir. This line was mostly face climbing, with a lot of features to pull on. Many of North Carolina’s native plants are well-suited to firewise landscaping—they have evolved to thrive in the state’s soils and climate, are non-invasive, and are best suited to provide food, shelter, and nesting sites for North Carolina’s wildlife. Descent: From the summit of Pagoda Mountain, descend northeast to the Longs-Pagoda saddle, then follow talus and snow back into the basin east of the Crescent Ridge and return to Sandbeach Lake. Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105838848/north-buttress I brought our very lightweight and thin Petzl Paso Guide rope (7.7mm, 70m) knowing the terrain was easy and a leader fall very unlikely. Easier lines were both left and right so if you’re no lover of slab climbing, find broken rock on either side. Colorado, United States, North America Primomo. P2: Christin led this pitch, starting straight up from the belay and placed the first piece of protection about 20 feet up in another horizontal crack. She and her partners were going to climb the “Barb” route on The Spearhead. III. 6. I had two prior experiences with Pagoda. The crux - reported by many - is the West Ridge of Pagoda Mountain which goes at 5.7. and maintaining plants. 5. A view towards Half Mountain from near the top of Storm Peak. Looks like an awesome route. Colchuck Lake area in prime Spring conditions. A friend got a job in Moab for the offseason so we met up for a quick going-away party before I set off. ... almost pagoda-like, with a big Buddha buttress. The North Buttress of Mt. Photo: Nick Sweeney 1. I stopped abruptly when the scrambling was hard and continued to get harder. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. The North Buttress splits this wide face in the middle and rises directly in a straight line to the summit. Grand Central is a six-pitch Grade III-5.10b or 5.9 C1 completed in 2015 that ends on top of the North Buttress. I sat drinking beer in the Edinburgh evening sun, grumpy and frustrated about my flight to Canada the next day. The quick beta is: stay right! It was fun to see her and have a friend nearby. The lower part of the very tedious descent gully is on the left. The North Face of Pagoda Mountain is a beautiful 1,500' slab of granite rising up between 12,000' and 13.500' above the Glacier Gorge Cirque. North Buttress. Follow this broken line to the top where easier ground gains the mountain`s cairn . Parent: Pagoda Mountain. The approach does, however, require climbing snowfields below the face. North Buttress (5.7, 6 pitches) Pagoda Mountain, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado Tackle a park classic without queueing up at the base When alpine season begins in the park, climbers flock to the classics: the Petit Grepon, the Casual Route … It was not very challenging and roundtrip, it’s 14-15 miles with ~4,500’ of gain. We were stopped abruptly in the early morning daze by Christin’s friend Jade who was camped nearby. We scrambled the slabs for a pitch before pulling out the rope. 29th Apr/2011. The Pagoda gully is nasty and just a huge scree pile. Pagoda Mountain (13,497-ft) resides within the protected boundaries of Rocky Mountain National Park, or as some of us say “The Park.” This elegant mountain is.7 miles southwest of Longs Peak (14,255-ft) and.8 miles east of Chief’s Head Peak (13,579-ft.) Scramble to the twin boulders high on the skyline, thence up stepped rock to an open crack and chimney at a steeper angle. There are a few points on my peak list that are fairly weak. North Buttress: Pagoda Mountain: 36: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 7 pitches Admittedly I didn’t do much research (I probably was looking for the shortest route, not the least difficult) and unknowingly was heading up the west ridge. Christin had never climbed Pagoda by any route so even if it didn’t relate to scouting for AWITP it would still be a fun new peak for her and a new route up the mountain for me. Incredible beams from the Keyboard of the Winds After a nice hour spent lounging by the lake watching sunrise light up the peaks, we turned around and marched out in a leisurely fashion taking lots of rest stops and looking for mushrooms along the way. 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b. I’d planned a dream trip to see my best friend and old From Black Lake, the terrain is quite gentle over tundra and slithering creeks flowing from the snowmelt and tarns closer to the Continental Divide. I'm routing for you man. We packed up the campsite after talking more photos, stashed all but the climbing stuff and started the walk up to Pagoda. I got to the Lower South Colony TH a little before 10:30 and it was already quite full. ... (11,939’) is 0.8 miles north of Knobtop Mountain, and 1.5 miles east of Sprague Pass. 972 miles away. This has not escaped the notice of historians. North Indian Temples. Pagoda from Glacier Gorge. The night before the climb we drove into Bear Lake parking lot around 6pm, fighting the 4th of July Fudgies for access, loaded our packs with all the climbing and camping gear, then walked in for about four miles to Black Lake. From here it was an unroped scramble over more slab until gaining the top of the North Buttress route and using the very cool and beautiful ridge right to the summit. Mount Goode (pronounced Good-E) is the tallest peak in the North Cascades National Park at 9,199 feet. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. The North Buttress now has many new routes of bolted face and trad climbing no harder than 5.7. Foreshortening makes the summit appear a lot less pointy than it really is. North Buttress. View All Trip Reports (30) I like yours. Running and climbing distance 14 milesRock climbing grade 5.5 Northeast FaceAlpine grade II (in summer conditions)Number of climbing pitches 3Vertical gain 5,600’Summit elevation 13,497’Time camp to summit to car 9 hours (starting from Black Lake bivy). Continue 47 mi to Marblemount for trip permits at Park Ranger Station. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information. Trad, Alpine 4 pitches Alpine Rock > … > Glacier Gorge > Pagoda Mountain. Half Mountain is at the end of the ridge. Due to it's remoteness, it's the only prominent peak in Washington that cannot be viewed from a road, and even with reputation as a classic alpine route in Washington, you'll often find yourself alone for the majority of the climb. Moss campion. This was a kind of cool cloud. I went as far as the rope would stretch and used a boulder as a natural anchor. I’d like to go back and climb the West Ridge but also the North Buttress (5.7) which are likely both more interesting climbing routes. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. rmayer. I. II. View back towards Longs Peak. On the shortcut trail back to Glacier Gorge, we were passed by a runner who asked if we’d seen his friends “Maury and Alex…” who he was trying to meet up with on Chief’s Head. There are several variations that can be done, with the easiest being in the 4th class range,and the most direct involving climbing up to 5.6. Buttresses are a climbing feature That is based on a feature of gothic archetecture: In climbing parlance it's come to mean any rock feature that is slightly removed from a main feature, be it a crag, cliff or mountain. While there are a number of popular routes on this peak, the classic is surely the South Buttress. buttress / bell-shaped adaptation at the bottom of wetland tree trunks Down: 1. anaerobic / when there is no available oxygen 3. oxygen / when there is hydric (wetland) soil, there in not much of this element in the soil 4. hydrology / the study of how water moves around … You're riding out some of your final 13ers with some fantastic style! The trickiest navigation was on the tundra above Black Lake. The route up the NE Buttress of Slesse Mountain (aka Mount Slesse). Drive I-5, take exit 232 (Cook Road) at Burlington, turning east to Sedro Wooley and SR 20. 254 records in 204 cities for Billy Williams in North Carolina. Dragontail on the left, Colchuck on the right. North Buttress of Colchuck Peak Climb This is a very nice moderate rock climb in a beautiful mountain cirque. Plus, the climb has a beautiful setting and a relatively straight-forward approach and descent which makes it a great car-to-car climb. We needed the scenery of Glacier Gorge for the photos, so instead of camping on the west side of the range, we started from Bear Lake, camped just before Black Lake, and climbed the northeast face of Pagoda. The climb takes an aesthetic line up a dramatic 800' buttress, with sustained 5th class climbing up to 5.9. Pagoda Mountain 4,113 m (13,497 ft). Scramble over the dome and down into a broad, U-shaped notch, then up to the base of the initial buttress. Standing alone on the opposite side of the valley from Liberty Bell, Cutthroat peak rises dramatically above the beautiful alpine meadows near Washington Pass. We both slept very well and were up around 4am. Feedback Longs Radical Slam! In the distance a Chinese watch-tower rises from Hunchun City, with North Korean Mountains rising on the left. The approaching to the mountain and the climb itself was great, despite the windchill at the top. V - VI. Pagoda is a great option in rmnp for some less crowded alpine rock. Billy Williams in North Carolina . Midway along the ridge from Storm Peak to Half Mountain… I bailed on Pagoda and instead went up the gentle north ridge of Chief’s Head Peak. Colchuck Peak climbed via the North Buttress Couloir on April 10, 2016 with Sean and Jill. 2500ft of stellar climbing! We know a “Maury” through a friend of a friend and Maury runs, well, the Alex Honnold Foundation so it was obvious to us the “Alex” this runner was referring to was “Honnold.” Christin and I had a big laugh because if the runner had just said “Alex Honnold” our response would have been a very fast “Yes” or “No” rather than the initial response we gave him which was rambling and sort of like, “uh, yeah, we saw some parties up there but not sure if it was your friends.” Ha! We found a nice secluded campsite next to a stream, took some sunset photos for Biolite, ate some really good camp food (seriously), read a little (Alpinist #70), and were both asleep by 10pm. 972 miles away. This one is on my ”wants-ta” list for the summer. We hope you enjoy the many reports contributed by thousands of our users. We’ve been talking about scouting this section, with a rope, before she attempts it. Pagoda Mountain; View More Photos Summit: 13,497 feet : 40.24923°N,-105.62699°W Rank in CO: 258 of 637 13er Rank in CO: 205 of 584 13er Rank in Range: ... North Buttress on Pagoda. P3: I was back on lead for this pitch. The second time, I took the standard hiker’s route to Pagoda, starting from Glacier Gorge parking lot ascending the very scree-heavy gully and then an easy scramble to the top. SherpaVT. I chose the left which I protected from the belay stance. Goode is a classic High Sierra route. The descent was long and tedious over the gully’s loose and dirty talus. Way to go Derek! This happens on routes all the time, sometimes just to settle nerves, but infrequently makes it into trip reports. This is … ... while the four subsidiary temple spires represent the four mountains which buttress Meru on the four sides. Not registered. It was not very challenging and roundtrip, it’s 14-15 miles with ~4,500’ of gain. Love it. Basic Concepts All vegetation is potential fuel for a fire. The … For over a year one of Christin’s main running dreams has been the route, “A Walk In The Park” (AWITP) – a multi-peak traverse in Glacier Gorge, connected mostly by a lot of running/hiking and requiring excellent route finding (which obviously requires a lot of practice). The first time (July 2016), alone I set out to run to the top of Pagoda from Wild Basin. It stayed 5.5 through this pitch. Did the climb with Colorado Mountain Club members. The oldest surviving Chinese pagoda – the 12 sided brick pagoda of the Songyue temple complex built in 523 AD – has a predominantly Indian design. Continue to Rainy Pass, then descend east 2 mi from the pass to a large paved parking area, 4,400 ft. Christin had a photo assignment for her client Biolite which required a scenic backdrop and camping overnight to catch sunset/sunrise so I suggested we climb Pagoda. Pagoda’s Northeast Face is a fine alpine climb and a cool way to summit the peak. The Colchuck Glacier is between the two. Trad, Alpine 7 pitches Alpine Rock > … > Glacier Gorge > Pagoda Mountain. M erriam Peak is a mountain of loose choss with one solid, gleaming triangle of granite punching out in the center of its north side. I try to use my best judgement in determining whether it is a worth summit. Download Agreement, Release, and Acknowledgement of Risk: I'll have to keep this route in mind, as I get to be a better trad climber! The average Billy Williams is around 52 years of age with around 57% falling in to the age group of 51-60. Descent was via the Colchuck Glacier. To reach the base of the North Buttress we had to climb ~200-300 feet up the scree gully leading up to the Longs-Pagoda Saddle and then traverse to the base of the buttress just above a dark band of rock. that's a sweet tr, yo, we did pagoda from the south side up the crescent ridge in late sept. last year and the entire north face was covered in snow\ice, looked burly, so I'm impressed. 1 North Arete. 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 21 Crescent Ridge. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow): Using your forum id/password. The North Buttress (III 5.6) is a classic rock climbing route up ribs and faces on the North Face of Mount Sneffels that is best climbed in July and August after most of the snow has melted off the rock. It had one left line and one right line. Pagoda’s Northeast Face is a fine alpine climb and a cool way to summit the peak. The top city of residence is Charlotte, followed by Durham. With its cracks, clean granite, and challenging and aesthetic lines, this feature just begs to be climbed. July in March on Meeker & Longs. 14ers.com has the largest collection of Colorado hiking trip reports on the web! From here the climbing was sustained 5.4 - 5.5. 4. Alpenglow on McHenrys Profile view of Pagoda's North Buttress. It is also possible to top-rope more climbs up to 5.9 from the routes’ belay anchors. P1: Our first roped pitch went straight up the slab. Marmot72. We ascended about halfway up the gully before exiting right for the slabs of the northeast face. I’d like to go back and climb the West Ridge but also the North Buttress (5.7) which are likely both more interesting climbing routes. As I was opening my backpack, my helmet fell off and started rolling down the hill. 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